Man Kunto Maula at Sufi Dargah in Sarnath, India

I have blogged before about the “little qawwali traditions” referring to the countless qawwals who sing at small town dargahs all over South Asia. Here is another example of the same. Bachcha Mohsin Qadri Qawwal and Part from Ghazipur, UP sing qaul at the urs (death anniversary) of a Sufi saint who lies buried in Sarnath near Banaras. Sarnath is famous as a “Buddhist town” because the Buddha preached his first sermon there after gaining enlightenment. But on this day, Muslim weavers from Banaras were to be found in the hundreds, strolling down Sarnath’s main thoroughfare usually populated by Buddhist monks and European tourists.

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